AW
92 posts
Nov 12, 2011
5:43 PM
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I'd like to try the blu-tack method for retuning a reed. I couldn't find blu-tack locally, but did find Loctite brand multiple purpose repair putty.
http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/epxy_putty/overview/Loctite-Repair-Putty-Multi-Purpose.htm
Does anyone know if this would function in the same way?
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sorin
337 posts
Nov 12, 2011
6:05 PM
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blu-tak , it is an over the Atlantic product, chances are that you not gonna find it in the US , the equivalent of it , is what they call poster putty , that you can get at an art supplies store . I ran into this issue when doing pencil drawing , it's used to pick up graphite .
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nacoran
4896 posts
Nov 12, 2011
10:48 PM
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It seems to be on Amazon and I think Walmart carries it. I wouldn't swear it was the same brand, but I used to use some variety of it way back in college to hang posters on the dorm wall. It was blue. I think Isaac has mentioned Blu Tack by name and he's here stateside.
I don't think the Loctite will function the same. The selling point on the selling point of the Blu-Tack will stick but can be taken back off if you don't like the result, and it's more adjustable. It looks like the Loctite is a permanent solution.
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Nate
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lumpy wafflesquirt
459 posts
Nov 13, 2011
5:37 AM
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blu tac aka Smurf $h1t
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isaacullah
1669 posts
Nov 13, 2011
9:19 AM
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It's all pretty much the same stuff. Perhaps the one made by 3-M might be slightly better quality than the others, but I don't think you'll notice it. I use the house-brand from Ace hardware, and I've done perhaps ten harps with it, the oldest of which is going on two years now with no malfunctions.
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isaacullah
1670 posts
Nov 13, 2011
9:20 AM
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Oh, and I should mention that, at first, you will be surprised at how little you have to use.
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Frank
47 posts
Nov 14, 2011
4:50 PM
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Solder is easier...
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arzajac
682 posts
Nov 14, 2011
5:32 PM
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Why is solder easier? Blu-tak (or its equivalent) is quick and easy to apply and can be removed if you want. Apparently it lasts for decades.
You don't need flux or fancy equipment to apply it, just a small screwdriver and a shim.
It would seem to me to have all the advantages of solder and more without any disadvantages.
I've never used solder, which is why I am asking.
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Frank
48 posts
Nov 14, 2011
6:04 PM
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My experience is that solder is quicker and easier to work with and apply.That's why I use it! No fancy equipment is needed, nor flux. I've tried the blu-tak and again, in my experience solder is superior in "every way" - including quickness and ease of use. Solder is simple to work with and is removed in a blink of an eye with a file. My suggestion is, if your serious about tuning your harps - don't waste your precious time messing with the blu-tak.
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nacoran
4926 posts
Nov 14, 2011
8:25 PM
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When I was little I had a beginners soldering kit. I imagine if I'd gotten good at it it might be easier to use, but for people who are just getting into tuning I'd think blue tack would be much easier, especially if you are just experimenting. I think solder might have some advantages, but only if you already know your way around a soldering gun.
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isaacullah
1675 posts
Nov 14, 2011
9:25 PM
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I'm an excellent solderer, but I prefer Blutak for tuning harps for many many many many reasons. To each his own!
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Frank
49 posts
Nov 15, 2011
5:40 AM
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I'm a mediocre solderer and I still obtain fast superb results. I don't have many many many reasons why I use it, but I do have one MAIN reason - its the BEST way to tune harps! In my experience...
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arzajac
683 posts
Nov 15, 2011
6:03 AM
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Just saying it's the best is not helpful.
I'm concerned about ruining a reed (or a reedplate) by using solder. What happens if some solder drips over the side of the reed? Is it removable without scrapping the reed?
Do soldered reeds rattle more? I find that lowering a harp by a tone or a semi-tone needs a sizable piece of bluetak on the one draw But it's that chunk that hits the coverplate when I draw too hard, not the reed itself. The result is that the rattle is much less loud. I would think the rattle is both louder and easier to cause on a soldered one draw since it would be a chunk of solder hitting the coverplate (earlier than if there were no solder). Is this so?
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Frank
50 posts
Nov 15, 2011
6:53 AM
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Have NO fear...You have the ability to choose how much solder to set on a reed. If its slightly too much - you simply and very easily remove some with a file. Your only using a minute amount of solder, so dripping is of no concern.
Try this my friend...Grab a harp to practice on, lightly file about 1/16 of an inch across the end of the reed until you notice it becomes "shiny" - this action prepares the reed to accept the solder.
Touch a 40 watt solder iron pointed tip to the shiny area for a 2 seconds and bring the solder (I use the thinnest solder available)to meet the solder iron tip. Just slightly touch the solder to the tip of the iron and IMMEDIATELY a very tiny layer of solder will dry and adhere to the tip of the reed. Next lightly file the solder to bring into tune.
Using a "Tip Tinner and Cleaner" to keep your solder iron tip clean will help in giving you excellent results as will wiping the tip between soldering's on a little wet sponge helps too.
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isaacullah
1676 posts
Nov 15, 2011
7:28 AM
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Alright, I'll bite. My one main reason for using Blutak is that it is instantly reversible, and also instantly redoable. What I mean is that once you've tuned a reed down with the proper size blob of blutak, you simply can pluck the blob off and the reed is back to its original tuning. If you keep the blob (e.g., set it on the reedplate nearby the reed from whence it came), then you can easily re-adhere it to the reed to bring it back to it's altered state. Since the hardest part of blutak tuning is determining the correct size of the blob, once you have the blob, this retuning literally takes a few seconds. Thus, you can pretty much have one harp that you can change the tuning of in an instant.
Secondly, with blutak, you only need a very few rudimentary tools, and you never have to file (which I hate doing). Here's a tip for doing blutak: use an x-acto knife. What I do is to put a small amount in a little clump on the desk, and use the x-acto knife to slice off a small amount out of it. Poke the small bit with the tip of the knife so it's loosely adhered. Then, support the reed with a shim under it and gently smear the blutak onto the tip of the reed. I usually then LIGHTLY push down on it with a finger, with a slight rocking motion. This gets it better stuck to the tip of the reed. Then, I go in with the x-acto again to shape it. I like it to be square, and set back from the edges of the reed by a small margin (so it doesn't make the reed stick in the slot). I usually taper the edges at an angle, so it looks like a little "prism". Almost always, I've put too much on, and the reed is detuned too much. I use the x-acto to cut a little bit off, from the BACK (side facing the rivet end of the reed) of the small prism of blutak. You have to do this in a deft, precise motion in order to avoid forming a stretched out "string" when pulling the material away. Anyway, once you get the hang of it, it's not too hard at all. I find I can do the whole procedure in about 30 seconds or so per reed!
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