TylerLannan
9 posts
Nov 24, 2008
11:39 AM
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Hello all,
I know that there are a lot of things that players do to harps out of the box. I myself like to give a few tweaks here and there but id like to see what other players do to their out of the box harps as far as customization goes. I saw a YouTube video of chris michalek playing with one of his harps (a golden melody I think?) and I'd like to be able to do something like that to my harps to get that kind of responsiveness. Any help is appreciated. Thanks.
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Preston
69 posts
Nov 24, 2008
12:13 PM
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I could write pages and pages going into detail, but here is an outline: (By the way, I typically play blues harps, so some of the comb work is specific to that harp and may not apply to other models)
#1: Emboss cover plates with socket, or penny.
#2a: Straighten reeds
#2b: arch the ends
#2c: adjust gap
#3: Drill out reed and cover screw holes, to allow comb to be slid to the front of reed plates
#4: Round corners of comb edges at each individual hole and on the ends of the harp as well
#5: Sand Comb on all 6 sides for smoothness
#6: Seal comb in beeswax
Note: I separated #2 out into two parts. I count it all as one step, but others may prefer to omit arching the ends. I have done it both ways.
Last Edited by on Nov 24, 2008 12:15 PM
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Miles Dewar
78 posts
Nov 24, 2008
12:42 PM
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I just started embossing the reeds. you do this to decrease the gap on the long edge of the reed plate reed holes. You want to do this a little at a time, like 2 strokes. then you plink the reed to see if it seizes up. when it does and you dont feel a long vibration, this means that either burrs have accumulated, or the reed gap is too close. you want this at first, you then file down the burrs. when the reed vibrates after doing this it is done. I have to tell you you absolutely WILL DESTROY A couple reedplate grooves, so do it with an old harp or a very cheap $5.00 harp. once you get it down you will know how many strokes will mold the metal enough. Remember, less strokes is better.
2 strokes, plink, if it still vibrates, 2 strokes plink..... when it doesnt vibrate when plinked, file down the burrs or edges. Hope it helps.
GO BEARS!!!!!!!!!!
---Be Positive---
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oldwailer
342 posts
Nov 27, 2008
11:09 AM
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I find that, with an out-of-the-box harp, the best thing to do is take it out and play the crap out of it--for at least a couple of days. Then, it *might* be time to mess with it, if it needs it. I have some harps that just play great without all that messing around in the shop. Others need a lot of stuff. . .
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LIP RIPPER
13 posts
Dec 04, 2008
1:50 PM
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I THOUGHT I'D FIND A THREAD RELATIVE TO MY QUESTION. I'M PLAYING LEE OSKARS, WHICH I REALLY LIKE. SEEMS LIKE THEY DON'T NEED MUCH MASSAGING. I DON'T PLAY THE LOW HARPS MUCH SO I THOUGHT I'D BETTER WORK MORE WITH MY G HARP. THE BLUE 3RD AS IT'S REFERRED TO IS HARD TO HOLD ON THIS HARP. IT WANTS TO EASILY BEND ON DOWN. SHOULD I LOWER THE REED HEIGHT TO SETTLE IT DOWN OR SHOULD I WORK ON MY EMBOUCHURE?
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tookatooka
36 posts
Dec 04, 2008
2:32 PM
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I'd love to do more in the way of customising my harps but I'm petrified of screwing up. Just don't know how much punishment those reeds will take before they fracture. I have tried on old plates and they do seem quite robust but knowing my luck...
It's not so much the financial loss, it's the problem of not being able to play when a new one is on order, and re-learning the idiosincracies of a new one. I only have a couple, I'm a fair weather player not a pro.
When a harp that I've nurtured finally dies, it's like losing an old friend.
What I can't work out is that Chris says that his customised harps last for years yet after tweaking the gaps and arc's surely that alone would promote some fatigue which would shorten a reeds lifespan? Maybe his mods put the reed under less stress in the long term.
And Jason Ricci says his mods are closely guarded secrets but surely there is only so much one can do with emboss/gap/arc etc? seeing him play though I wouldn't think they would last very long at all. He really does seem to punish them.
It's a black art that I want to understand more because if it helps my playing then it's gotta be done.
But having said that wouldn't it be nice to pay just a lttle bit more and have the manufacturers ensure it was up to a high standard in the first place?
Last Edited by on Dec 04, 2008 2:35 PM
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