Hi guys here are some pics from my own custom set. I used dymondwood,zebrano or cherrywood for the combs. The blue comb one was made by Chris Michalek( terrific harp) but all the others are my creations.
I am playing the red dymondwood one ( A harp) using my custom 5F1 champ.
I have a G harp that has a Yin/Yang--and that one is yours too, Buddha!
This is a good thread--I think I'll try to get my camera going and make a little video on my customs--ones that are made by Buddha and the ones I made. Of course--the playing might not be as good as Tony's!
Thanks all for the nice comments ! I spend a lot of time working on each harp(at least 10 hours)but the result is worth it. They play awesome (which is the most important IMO) but I also like when they look good.
Nice harps, Tony. I noticed on your all wood harps the grain runs the length of the harp. Do you find any warpage/moisture problems with that? I would think you would want end grain (which is more porous) to be against the reed plates or front to back.
Nice harps, Tony. I noticed on your all wood harps the grain runs the length of the harp. Do you find any warpage/moisture problems with that? I would think you would want end grain (which is more porous) to be against the reed plates or front to back.
The things that really caught my eye tho were the side cutout on the covers. (Does that help much, and with what, how?)
And the small bolts that look like their purpose is to provide support for the covers. I have a lot of trouble with smashing/ collapsing down my covers and I'm sure that's a major impediment to my playing. Is that what they are for? If so, could you provide any detail on jut that feature? specs of parts/technique?
Thanks. -Phil
Last Edited by on Jun 17, 2009 8:44 AM
I don't use cover support posts unless requested. Players need to play in a relaxed state and if you're crushing your covers then you're playing with too much tension. That said, I arch the backs of my covers and strengthen them so they are harder to crush.
If you want to make a crushing post. Drilled a hole and find some threaded rod and nuts. or just use long bolts and a nut to secure it.
No I'm of the klutz variety. I used to sit on them to crush them in my pocket. Now my latest trick was to have 3 new harps without cases in my wheelchair backpack when I flipped my chair over backwards and crushed all three! And the price of replacement covers seems ridiculous.
I've thought of trying an aftermarket cover as replacements. Something I saw here. Turbo-lids I think.
Just like Chris said you shouldn't crush your harps but I put the support just in case something happen. I got one harp from Chris and I dont have problem at all with it and Chris didn't use any support. I personally do like how they look. Just use a longer bolt and nuts and there you go.
To answer Philosofy question. If the wood is sealed well there is no problem going with the grain on the lenght which sure looks nicer IMO. When using Dymondwood you don't need to seal it since it is so dense and it polish better going with the grain.
