Have a Delta Frost fitted with Suzuki ProMaster plates and now want to open up the back. I'm not worried about retaining the central supports because I can fit oversized bolts to provide support.
I want to work on the back sound holes but because I am so nit-picking and particular I don't want to see any dents or irregularities in the metal. The Marine Band is easy because it is straight, but the Delta Frost has curves in the wrong places and doesn't have a natural crease which can be worked on.
Has anyone attempted to do this to a Delta Frost or have any ideas on how it may be done? But it has to look tidy.
Hey Took, I did mine and it came out looking smooth. I actually started the bend by pushing them in with my fingers while they were still mounted/assembled on the comb. Then I used a metal shim on the top of the cover so the pliers did not bite into the cover plate, and finished bending it under.
I don't remember exactly how I got the idea of doing that, but If I'm not mistaken, I think that's an old Dave Payne tip. Thanks Dave!
By the way Dave, if you're reading this, I emailed you several months ago at an email address I got off of elkriverharmonicas.com about a Rupert DVD, and never got any response back. Should I try again or are you just avoiding me? (that's a joke by the way, from what I've read here you don't seem like the avoiding kind)
Put a cuople layers of electrical tape over the top of the coverplates before attempting opening. Also you could order some longer screws from micro mark that would then act as supports or build your own brace by cutting something and drilling a hole through the plates large enough to acommadate it, then just slide it in there and put the harp back together and the coverplates will hold the brace in place, and in space so you can save face, and erase space with good taste and no haste if thats the case at your pace smooth as silk and lace without a trace etc...
I've actually opened my delta frost's cover plates-- I ended up making the bottom one look like crap and the top one looked awesome... Just use pliers to grab onto the metal and bend it inward, then use the pliars to squeeze the bent part flat ---------- "Without music, life would be a mistake" -Nietzsche
Hey many thanks fellas. Coupled with some of your suggestions and some ideas that I have had I may just be able to do it. I'll post the method with photos on here if it works out well. I'm just going to mentally rehearse it now because if it doesn't work out right then I've ruined my harp. I really don't want any ripples in the metal. If it's not perfect I won't be happy and I won't be able to play it. It will become spares stock. I'll have to buy another one.
It's a pain being a perfectionist, I just can't accept second best. I can't help it. It really bugs me.
Hey Took, You used to be able to buy Bushman replacement coverplates from their website. I just went there and it doesn't look like they have a link for it any more, but you may be able to call customer service.... Also, if you have any spare SP20's, I think their plates are about the same width as a Bushmand DF.
Thanks Preston. If it fails I'll go for a Suzuki HarpMaster. I don't have any Hohners, I'm all Suzuki because I can get replacement plates easily and relatively cheaply. It's annoying that you can't get other spare parts though especially Suzuki Combs and cover plates. ----------
Just made it. GOnna take a while to convert it, edit it and all that stuff, but it's coming. An American Chestnut hammer and the "Board of Prewarification" are involved.
Wow! Thanks, that's very kind of you. At the moment I'm thinking along the lines of two wallpaper strippers to be used like giant pliers. I'll wait for your video before doing anything though. Thanks. ----------
Dude, you want to get two lines of strippers (pun intended) in the shop, be my guest. ;)
I'm positive the way I do it in the video, is the same way they used to do it in the factory. I got one of Rupert Oysler's custom Marine Bands, from back in THE DAY, it had these perfect crimped plates, then I asked him how he did it. It was this way.
"Dude, you want to get two lines of strippers (pun intended) in the shop, be my guest. ;) I'm positive the way I do it in the video, is the same way they used to do it in the factory."
wow guys! watch the language, there are non native English speakers here, who get confused as hell about who is doing what and where .... and what are wall paper strippers? Are they rapped up in wall paper BEFORE they perform? keep it simple please :-) (sorry, couldn't let this one slip by) ---------- DutchBones Tube
GULP! Thinks, "I couldn't hit my coverplate with a socking great mallet, I just couldn't do that to my little baby". I'm gonna try some other (gentler) ideas that I've had which may just be what I'm looking for. I'll post the results on here if it all works out.
Just an update on opening the back of the Delta Frost.
I think you'll agree it looks so much better than the bricklike top image. I haven't ascertained how much the volume has increased yet but I'll be checking that out once I've sorted out the central support.
2)Put longer screws through the holes already there,what I usually do, but ironically, I can't find a pic. You'll need aught 80 screws or M2. I think you can thread M2 into the reedplate easily, or you could use aught 80 and a nut. You can make a lock washer (which you can't find that small) by cutting a regular washer and giving it a little twist.
Last Edited by on Jul 01, 2009 4:51 AM
I've found that when you bend the metal over it strengthens it. If you are good to your harps and only take them out of their cases they shouldn't get much abuse. I haven't put any supports in the last couple of harps I've opened up, and so far, no crushed covers.
It looks great. I've got a bunch of Suzuki Harpmasters that look just like the Delta Frosts and I'd like to do the same thing. Let us know what you ended up doing to get such a nice fold.
First off these plates are tougher than you think. They look thin and frail but they are tough.
I used a Dremel with a little cutting disc to cut where shown in the following image. You could use a junior hacksaw but the Dremel gives you more control with thin metal.
This will leave you with a gap of 3 inches between the cuts. I inserted a 3 inch width wallpaper scraper into the crease on the inside of the cover. On a softwood surface I was able to start bending the back of the cover inwards.
When I got as far as I could manually, I transferred it to a small vise to finish the fold. Keep the scrapper in the crease all the time and it should ensure the new fold is nice and straight. Also keep the outer face of the covers protected with softwood too if you use a vise.
I didn't try hammering it, but would have thought a small rubber mallet would have been OK. Not sure.
All that was left was to remove the metal which I've marked in red at the bottom of the image with a Dremel grinder or small handfile.
Hope that helps. If you're quite handy you may find a better way but the 3inch scraper was a great help to retain a sharp straight fold.
Rubber's gonna be tougher, you might get away with it on a Marine Band, but some other harps will be tougher. You've got wood behind the cover, which is fairly soft. The American Chestnut hammer I use because it is cool, but it is a little soft, although it works OK. A small ball peen hammer works better.
Just a quick update. There is an increase in volume but I couldn't really say how much but what I have found is that hand wahs are much more effective. All in all I'm pleased I did it. ----------
I wonder why no harps (that I know of) are manufactured with the open cover plates. I can understand why a machine can't make a custom harp, but you'd think they could at least make open cover plates...
bluzlvr: "but you'd think they could at least make open cover plates..."
Two things: first, I don't believe that most manufacturers put too much attention on "opening up the back". It doesn't make that big a difference and they put more emphasis on style and stability. It's just us soundfreaks... second, opening up the back is a tradeoff. louder harp but thinner tone...