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Dirty-South Blues Harp forum: wail on! >
A question...
A question...
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1
nacoran
232 posts
Oct 05, 2009
10:06 PM
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Ok, so I have a plate and I've run a tool (a screw driver extension, it was the roundest tool I had) down and closed the gaps a bit on a cheap practice harp. I've gone overboard on a couple gaps and I'm trying to correct it, the problem is the reed is in the way. I'd prefer, for now, to not have to graduate to replacing reeds so I'm trying to be careful with the reed while still trying to get in the gap to de-bur it a little. I'm trying to get the reed out of the way. How much (how many degrees roughly) can I move the reed before I ruin it? What is the best tool for pushing the reed back and forth to see if it clears (I'm worried the tiny screwdriver I'm using may scratch the reed.) How much play side to side does a riveted reed have before it will snap (the one reed seems a little crooked.) Thanks for any help.
Oh, and will just pushing the reed back and forth eventually wear the bur off or am I more likely to damage the reed that way? (Like I said, it's a practice harp, but the more I can practice on this one the less I have to practice on the next one.)
Last Edited by on Oct 05, 2009 10:07 PM
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MrVerylongusername
549 posts
Oct 06, 2009
1:53 AM
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Unless you're working on a Suzuki or a Delta Frost (where the reeds are welded on rather than rivetted) then you can spin the reed right out of the way and it will be fine. A reed spanner helps and is pretty easy to make yourself - I cut one from a piece off an old reedplate. Getting the reed back in the slot, properly aligned is a bit of a pain. I push it down, if it jams, then I give the reed a fractional twist till it pops free, then plink to check it's swinging completely unhindered.
Plinking usually clears most burrs unless you've really over-embossed the slot edges.
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Kingley
401 posts
Oct 06, 2009
2:15 AM
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I agree with MrV a reed wrench / spanner is a good idea.
Also a thin brass strip (or shim as Dave Payne down at Elk River calls 'em!). A thin feeler guage could also be used.
I often use the Lee Oskar reed lifting tool for realigning.
The main thing is a good light source so you can see what you're doing. A magnifier can also be of help when doing fine reed work.
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