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jonsparrow
1200 posts
Oct 20, 2009
5:03 PM
www.idealtruevalue.com

i ordered some butchers block oil from them over a week ago. never got my confirmation email. tried emailing them an calling them for a week. finally returned my call an told me they just sent me a tracking number. an asked when they shipped it out an they said today. im like wtf! so when i get home i check an there is no email, no tracking number. i tried calling them back an again there not picking up the phone. im about to cancel the payment through the credit card if it dosnt arrive real soon.
KingoBad
108 posts
Oct 20, 2009
6:04 PM
Go to Lowe's. You can get a one pint can that will last you forever, and you won't have to mess with internet iffiness. I think the brand is Watco.
RyanMortos
384 posts
Oct 20, 2009
6:11 PM
Yeah, the brand is Watco. I haven't checked Lowes online to see if they have it. Maybe your local Lowes can order it if they don't have it.

Believe it or not, 3 Lowes stores within a 30 minute drive of my house - 2 had no idea what I was talking about, the 3rd had it in stock.

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~Ryan
Pennsylvania - H.A.R.P. (Harmonica Association 'Round Philly)
jonsparrow
1201 posts
Oct 20, 2009
6:14 PM
i dont even know if there is a lowes by me. never heard of it.
wallyns10
42 posts
Oct 20, 2009
6:55 PM
Forgive the ignorance but what is butchers block oil used for?
RyanMortos
385 posts
Oct 20, 2009
6:55 PM
Haha, well I don't have a Guitar Center so we're even!

Sadly

Lowes.com

doesn't seem to have it on their site.

Before I found it I got frustrated and ordered some from Ron's Home and Hardware a few days ago. Not sure if I would recommend them or not yet. Here's Amazon's link

Butcher Block Oil at Amazon



I guess this is the main site for it

RustOleaum.com

There's a find retailer button.

Hope you can find it!

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~Ryan
Pennsylvania - H.A.R.P. (Harmonica Association 'Round Philly)
RyanMortos
386 posts
Oct 20, 2009
7:05 PM
Wally, butchers block is used as a non toxic sealant for wood. For example, wooden bowls, cutting boards, wooden counter tops, & our choice of use harmonica combs :) .

Let me direct you to:



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~Ryan
Pennsylvania - H.A.R.P. (Harmonica Association 'Round Philly)
KingoBad
109 posts
Oct 20, 2009
7:34 PM
I believe there are Lowe's in all 50 states. If you find one near you www.lowes.com , it will be in toe wood finishing section by the paint.
nacoran
264 posts
Oct 20, 2009
9:11 PM
RyanMortos- If your a guitar player guitar center is ok, if you go for harps, it's no big deal. Hohners and Oskars only.
isaacullah
405 posts
Oct 20, 2009
10:13 PM
The best oil I've found is from Ikea. Works really well and is 100% mineral oil with no added drying agents. Cheap as sh*t too.
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Super Awesome!
The magnificent YouTube channel of the internet user known as "isaacullah"
phogi
96 posts
Oct 21, 2009
12:41 AM
issac -
I thought you needed the drying agents? I've got some 100% mineral oil, but have not used it because several on here say its a bad idea.
Thoughts?
Philosofy
280 posts
Oct 21, 2009
8:39 AM
I have a Marine Band (pre war) that was sealed with something that still smells after a couple months. I would go with DEFT spray lacquer.
jonsparrow
1203 posts
Oct 21, 2009
9:44 AM
i used 100% mineral oil an my comb still swelled.
isaacullah
408 posts
Oct 21, 2009
10:31 AM
Phogi: The drying agents are potentially somewhat toxic, and they are not low VOC (in fact, they are VERY volitile, which is what makes them good drying agents). 100% mineral oil is non-toxic and very low VOC. This is why it is recomended for use on food preperation surfaces like wooden cutting boards, and why I use it for my harp combs. The other oil is better for things like furniture because it dries faster, and makes a shiny finish more easily, but I would not use it on my cutting boards or my harps because of the potential for inhaling/ingesting harmful vapors/compounds.

Jon: You have to soak the comb in the mineral oil for a long while. I do it for several days. I fill an old plastic marine band case up with mineral oil, and just stick the sanded and prepared comb in there. I close the lid, put it on a shelf, and forget about it for a few days. Doing this, I don't get ANY swelling. I'm not a very wet player though.


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Super Awesome!
The magnificent YouTube channel of the internet user known as "isaacullah"

Last Edited by on Oct 21, 2009 10:35 AM
Preston
538 posts
Oct 21, 2009
10:46 AM
No beeswax sealing fans in this thread? I use it on all my combs. It drys in minutes. Smells good. Cheap.

I've even left one in my vehicle on a hot summer day. I took it apart afraid there would be melted wax all over the rivets, but no problems.
RyanMortos
390 posts
Oct 21, 2009
10:53 AM
I have thought of trying a 50/50 beeswax/mineral oil mix. The butchers block dipping oil just sounded easier. I havent tried anything but am planning to in the next week. Preston, you find that just melted beeswax has been the best for you?

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~Ryan
Pennsylvania - H.A.R.P. (Harmonica Association 'Round Philly)
apskarp
44 posts
Oct 21, 2009
10:57 AM
I use mixture of 100% mineral oil + beeswax. I put them on glass and then I put that glass on hot water. After few minutes the mixture is totally liquid and then I use artistic brush to paint the comb with that mixture.

I let it dry for a day or so and it is still little bit wet but I don't have patience to wait any longer.. ;)
Preston
539 posts
Oct 21, 2009
12:34 PM
I've never tried anything else than beeswax. It works so well sealing and dries so fast, I guess I've never been tempted to try mineral oil with a long drying period.
isaacullah
409 posts
Oct 21, 2009
2:10 PM
I switched from beeswax to mineral oil because I noticed that after time, the beeswax was starting to corrode the brass that it was in contact with. The comb didn't swell, so moisture was not getting into the wood, but I think what was happening was that the beeswax was TOO waterproof,and it trapped moisture against the reedplates for longer than normal. The mineral oil technique seals the wood well enough to keep it from swelling (especially if you let the wood soak up a lot of oil first), but is not totally waterPROOF. More like water resistant. It seems to let the moisture evaporate out of the harp better, and so far I have not experienced the corrosion yet. I've only been doing the oil thing for a few months yet, so time will tell, I guess.
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Super Awesome!
The magnificent YouTube channel of the internet user known as "isaacullah"
nacoran
269 posts
Oct 21, 2009
2:43 PM
"No beeswax sealing fans in this thread?"- Preston

I had to read that three times before I realized you weren't talking about some exotic ceiling fixture, even although I should have been able to tell since they are spelled differently.
RyanMortos
391 posts
Oct 21, 2009
3:50 PM
isaacullah, how many days do you leave the comb in the mineral oil before taking it out to dry? Could I have an approximate number please?

Sounds like there's no definite sure fire solution, perhaps I need to ebay a ton of harps and try all the ways mentioned, haha. Course, I have marine bands I use right now that are in need of modification and one Im ready to get into comb work on. So I'm trying to pick something for this weekend.

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~Ryan
Pennsylvania - H.A.R.P. (Harmonica Association 'Round Philly)
jonsparrow
1208 posts
Oct 21, 2009
4:00 PM
guitar center is not just for guitars. they have amps, mics, recording equitment, etc... every thing a musician could want. percussion stuff.
isaacullah
410 posts
Oct 21, 2009
5:08 PM
Ryan: Usually about three days, although I've done it as long as a week. I think that three days is about right though since the week long soak wasn't noticeably better than the three day ones. You might be able to go even shorter, but I have not tried that...

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Super Awesome!
The magnificent YouTube channel of the internet user known as "isaacullah"

Last Edited by on Oct 21, 2009 5:08 PM
XHarp
204 posts
Oct 22, 2009
6:21 AM
Beeswax fan here.

I use this,

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=20087&cat=1,190,42950&ap=1

Can be bought on line and shipped anywhere. I happen to have Lee Valley close to my house.
Easy to apply, two food safe ingredients so I feel it is safe as direct to mouth (some Butcher Block ingredients are toxic so they may be good on a butcher block or salad bowl but I'm concerned when used as direct to mouth)

Easy to apply, fast drying and no odor or taste.

I sand the comb flat, use a straight edge and .0001 feeler gauge to confirm no gap, but I do not remove the existing MB applied outer coating on the ends of the comb.

I apply with one of smallest foam brushes I can get, in light coats until the wood maintains the darker colour. I leave each coat for about one hour between applications.
Recheck for swelling distortion with the straight edge and feeler gauge and correct and recoat as necessary and we're good to go.

Whole process is no more then overnight. No long soaking required.

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"Keep it in your mouth" - XHarp
jonsparrow
1219 posts
Oct 22, 2009
9:40 AM
well i finally got it today.


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