Sandy88
11 posts
Nov 18, 2009
6:15 PM
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Greetings illustrious gentlemen ---
Assuming it is even necessary, should one arc the blow reeds in the same fashion as the draw reeds?
Imagine two reedplates on a table, rivet side up. The draw reeds would obviously be arced so that the reed curves up towards the ceiling. Should the blow reeds be arced inversely to the draw so that the reeds curve down towards the table (away from the rivet end)?
Your chum,
Sandy88
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asilve3
49 posts
Nov 18, 2009
11:03 PM
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Good question! I don't know the correct answer. However, the way I do it is I make them arc upwards so the curve dips down into the slot. I do this for both blow and draw plates.
Does anyone know of any negative effects that occur from arcing reeds? Harpwrench? Buddha?
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http://www.youtube.com/user/asilve3
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e56505
30 posts
Nov 19, 2009
7:09 AM
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I thought the reed was suposed to be as flat as possible. could explain why I havent been successful at arcing. Which is it flat or curved?
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barbequebob
104 posts
Nov 19, 2009
7:52 AM
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If the reed is flat, it won't sound at all.
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Sincerely,
Barbeque Bob Maglinte
Boston, MA
http://www.barbequebob.com
CD available at http://www.cdbaby.com/cd/bbmaglinte
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Preston
548 posts
Nov 19, 2009
8:45 AM
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BBQbob: I strive to get my reeds as flat as possible. I'm not sure what you mean by it won't sound. Are you sure you're not talking about the gap?
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oldwailer
948 posts
Nov 19, 2009
9:40 AM
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Sandy, If you take a close look at how the plates are positioned in the harp, and which side of the plate the reeds attach, the question you ask answers itself--air moves in the same way to make a sound--blow or draw. Therefore, if you arc the reeds, you do it the same direction on both plates. (Away from the plate--reeds up on the bench).
It is easier for me to think of how the reed goes through the slot than how it is arced. If you look at a side view of the plate, and press the reed toward the slot--the optimum would be to have the entire reed entering the slot at the same time--which would be a flat reed. If the offset and gap are correct, a flat reed, to me, is the best sound.
Arcing, on the other hand--means that the tip of the reed goes through the slot ever so slightly later than the rest of the reed. It seems to me that this arcing makes the harp just a little bit louder, and it might improve the responsiveness just slightly. Personally, I prefer to go with a very flat reed with good offset and gap--this seems to give me the best sound for my style of playing--and the volume knob can always be tweaked to get that nuance of extra volume.
As always, I am totally willing to be wrong about this--I'm still learning this stuff myself. . .
Last Edited by on Nov 19, 2009 9:47 AM
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tookatooka
786 posts
Nov 19, 2009
9:51 AM
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I've never seen a manufacturer arc reeds (on YouTube that is). Surely it would take them far too long. I think the arc is naturally formed as the reed is stamped out and not during the manufacturing process.
I'm probably wrong though, but through my fiddling I haven't found it to make much difference. The process of gapping correctly gives the reed the optimum arc. IMO. The customisers tell us it's all a black secret art but I think that is BS.
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isaacullah
457 posts
Nov 19, 2009
10:30 AM
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I too am of the opinion that arcing is pure BS. Gapping is where it's at. Pure and simple. You don't need no stinking arc if the reed is gapped right.
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The magnificent YouTube channel of the internet user known as "isaacullah"
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Sandy88
12 posts
Nov 19, 2009
10:59 AM
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Buddha demonstrated reed arcing in his video on harmonica customization so I assume it is beneficial.
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Bluzdude46
285 posts
Nov 20, 2009
12:39 PM
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Ok Maybe I can clarify a little. There has to be some offset to the reed or it will in fact not "catch" air and vibrate. There are currently 2 theories on this straight and arced. I think Mr Spiers touched on the straight a little. When we say straight the is almost a crease far back on the reed near the rivet that positions the free end of the reed up, this is your offset. Now you can gap it lower with the back end of the reed actually in the slot with the free tip barely above the plate on a tight gap. The arcing theory, and I've seen pics of this in Richards Sleighs new book, is that there is a slower more curved arc down from the rivet end into the slot with the tip coming just above the slot. the idea behind both methods (I'm assuming) is to be able to gap as low as possible and still allow the reed to catch and vibrate at the least amount of air used (this falls in line nicely with BBQ Bobs theory of using as little air as needed instead of forcing) Thanks Bob I'm still working on that after all these years.
Last Edited by on Nov 20, 2009 12:41 PM
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