mankycodpiece
85 posts
Jan 08, 2010
10:08 AM
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i've got my old friends 260 crom and a marine band comb that i want to seal.
i've heard about beeswax.
so how is it applied and are there any other methods of sealing combs.
i find working on harps quite theraputic.
a reed on this £4 marine band broke so i'll leasrn to repair that too.
thinking about buying rupert oyslers video,but having trouble convincing myself to do it.has anyone of you lovely lads got the video,and what do you think of it?
BTW,where do you get the sealing products from.
Last Edited by on Jan 08, 2010 10:16 AM
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nacoran
742 posts
Jan 08, 2010
10:32 AM
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I think most of the guys recommend the stuff you use to seal butcher's blocks. I think you can get it at any home improvement store.
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oldwailer
1012 posts
Jan 08, 2010
11:17 AM
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I've bought a lot of stuff to learn--including a week of instruction from Buddha (the best money I've spent, by the way). I have Rupert's video's too--and they are a good way to start out.
For sealing, I recommend the Butcher Block sealer stuff--it is a pain in the ass to do 3 or 4 coats of the stuff--since it takes a day or more to dry each one--but it is the most permanent and it doesn't make your harp a dust magnet, like the beeswax does.
Once you use the beeswax, by the way, the butcher's block stuff won't stick--unless you know a trick I don't know. Be sure to sand the comb very flat before you start out--and a light 1200 grit sanding after you finish drying it out. Flat is more important than sealing.
If you are just starting out on the hobby of customizing harps, I would recommend to study all the vids on You Tube--Buddha has some good ones--and so does Richard Sleigh--and The Elkriver vids are very good. You will find different ways to do stuff and yu can develop your own way.
I think a good set of tools might be at least as important as the Rupert Oysler DVD's--Buddha, Richard Sleigh, and Dave at Elkriver all offer tool sets. I have the Richard Sleigh set and I'm very pleased with both the tools and the instructions that come with them.
Richard Sleigh's new book, "How to Turbocharge Your Harmonica for the hopelessly Lazy" (or something like that) is also a good resource that I like a lot.
Customizing harps, to me, is almost as fun as playing them--of course, many people don't like it at all--just a case of different strokes, I guess. I hope this helps. . .
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mankycodpiece
86 posts
Jan 08, 2010
11:28 AM
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thanks for awering.
i'll ring around a few butchers tomorrow to find out what they use.
i just want to be able to service my own harps and maybe pass it on to one of my grandsons that seems interested.
i'll check out richard sleigh's book,but i do like video's.
onca again,thanks.
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nacoran
746 posts
Jan 08, 2010
11:57 AM
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Manky, I think this stuff would work.
http://www.shopperschoice.com/item_name_Butcher-Block-Fair-Oil-Wood-Sealer_item_487291.html?source=froogle
(Correct me if I'm wrong guys!)
http://whatscookingamerica.net/Q-A/ButcherBlockOil.htm
Last Edited by on Jan 08, 2010 11:58 AM
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Stickman
59 posts
Jan 08, 2010
12:58 PM
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I use bees wax and am happy with it. It is easy and NOT very dangerous, as people tend to believe as long as you are attentive and know what to do if things go wrong. IF the wax catches fire RUN! no don't run, don't panic and DONT use water. Cover the pot with a lid and remove from heat with a hot pad and be careful not to spill it on you.
Here is what I do.
1 Buy a block of bees was or even better get some from someone who keeps bees.
2.Get a tin baking tray (like you might use for a turkey except smaller)
you can use a pot from the kitchen but that might be dangerous if your wife finds out.
3. Put wax in tin dish and place on stove.
4. Set the burner for no more than MED. DO NOT SET THE BURNER ON HIGH unless you have good homeowners insurance.
5. while you wait for the wax to melt, sand your comb on a flat surface. Do this in the kitchen so as to keep and eye on your wax. DO NOT LEAVE YOUR WAX UNATTENDED.
6. as soon as the wax has melted reduce heat to LOW and drop comb in melted wax for about 30 sec.
7. remove with a toothpick, let cool and repeat step six until the comb stops bubbling or at least the bubbling reduces substantially.
8. Turn stove off and use a pairing knife to scrape off excess wax from the top and bottom of the comb and between the tines, Make sure to remove all excess wax flakes before you reassemble, as they can get stuck in your reeds.
9. clean up. forgetting this step might be dangerous too.
I have never set fire to my kitchen, burned myself or had to reapply wax. As long as you don't cook on High or carry the hot wax around you should be fine. This is no more dangerous than using a barbeque grill (I have seen how much lighter fluid you people use)
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The Art Teacher Formally Known As scstrickland
Last Edited by on Jan 08, 2010 1:03 PM
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pharpo
60 posts
Jan 08, 2010
3:03 PM
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I used salad bowl finish and did not like the result...it also takes too long...I now use water based Varathane (polyurethne). about four coats with light sanding in between. Once it dries it is not toxic and looks much nicer.
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Music is your own experience, your own thoughts, your wisdom. If you don't live it, it won't come out of your horn. They teach you there's a boundary line to music. But, man, there's no boundary line to art. - Charlie Parker
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Sirsucksalot
143 posts
Jan 08, 2010
3:46 PM
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When i sand the comb where do i sand it. do i sand just the edges and tips of the comb teeth or do i just sand the top and bottom.
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toddlgreene
397 posts
Jan 08, 2010
3:52 PM
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Mine are done with salad bowl finish...but pharpo, if the varathane does in fact dry non-toxic, I might like it better-maybe I'll use it on my SBS comb. I've done some furniture with it with great results, and it's fairly easy to work with, and dries rock-hard.
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~Todd L. Greene
crescentcityharmonicaclub@gmail.com
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Stickman
60 posts
Jan 08, 2010
4:24 PM
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I sand the top and bottom where the reed plates go. and 3 edges (the back and one end. be very careful when you sand the tine end as not to break one) I don't sand the end where the key is printed. (the beeswax keeps the paint from wearing away. The most important end to sand would be the tine end as that is where it gets wet.
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The Art Teacher Formally Known As scstrickland
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Sirsucksalot
144 posts
Jan 08, 2010
4:51 PM
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Thanks stickman. very helpful.
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pharpo
61 posts
Jan 08, 2010
10:13 PM
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Sir.....make sure to use FLAT surfaces like sanding blocks, when you sand the faces of the comb. (I use two 8 inch 2X4's.) and sand lightly.
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Music is your own experience, your own thoughts, your wisdom. If you don't live it, it won't come out of your horn. They teach you there's a boundary line to music. But, man, there's no boundary line to art. - Charlie Parker
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Sirsucksalot
145 posts
Jan 08, 2010
11:54 PM
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Thanks. Good Advice.
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toddlgreene
406 posts
Jan 09, 2010
11:09 AM
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Walnut oil...makes sense. My wife poured some on a dining room table that's finish was worn, and it made an instant and beautiful difference! You may be onto something. Can you buy pistachio oil, so my harps will taste like Turkish Baklava? ;-)
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~Todd L. Greene
crescentcityharmonicaclub@gmail.com
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barbequebob
309 posts
Jan 09, 2010
11:56 AM
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Just remember, certain sealants are effective on some woods and not all woods and some woods tend to resist sealing completely. Personally, I've found beeswax is NOT totally moisture proof by any means and I'd rather have a polyurethane based sealere before beeswax that's allowed to fully dry and degas first.
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Sincerely,
Barbeque Bob Maglinte
Boston, MA
http://www.barbequebob.com
CD available at http://www.cdbaby.com/cd/bbmaglinte
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Stickman
64 posts
Jan 09, 2010
12:21 PM
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Degas? The Impressionist? Did he seal his combs?
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The Art Teacher Formally Known As scstrickland
Last Edited by on Jan 09, 2010 12:22 PM
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toddlgreene
407 posts
Jan 09, 2010
1:22 PM
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Sweet! I'm holding out for an M.C. Escher comb. Degas' depiction of light would make my combs too fru-fru.
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~Todd L. Greene
crescentcityharmonicaclub@gmail.com
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Stickman
65 posts
Jan 09, 2010
1:26 PM
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But your riffs would endlessly repeat themselves.
BTW Todd, I'm sure you know, Degas lived down your way for a while and made one quite famous (probably more) painting there.
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The Art Teacher Formally Known As scstrickland
Last Edited by on Jan 09, 2010 1:52 PM
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