GermanHarpist
1150 posts
Feb 22, 2010
8:00 PM
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?
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germanharpist on YT. =;-) - Resonance is KEY!
Last Edited by on Feb 22, 2010 8:00 PM
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nineveh_harp
49 posts
Feb 22, 2010
8:10 PM
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I've been wondering that myself. I think it has something to do with the way the reeds are manufactured on Asian-made harps because my Lee Oskars do it as well.
The strange thing is, I can OB on my A Manji and my C Promaster Hammond with no squeal whatsoever... interesting.
-Sam
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jonsparrow
2355 posts
Feb 22, 2010
8:21 PM
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because its a factory made harp that is not designed to overblow. remember harps were not ment to overblow when they were invented. its a technique that was discovered. so most harps are not made with overblows in mind. though some do it better then others. my Bb manji dosnt squeal. but i did do work to it, an i dont remember what it was like before.
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CJames
181 posts
Feb 22, 2010
9:00 PM
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yeah my promaster and bluesmaster squeal dependinh on how i hit the ob
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Pimpinella
89 posts
Feb 22, 2010
11:17 PM
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I think the squealing is related to the short slot design most Suzuki models (exceptions: Manji, Fabulous...) and Tombo/LO feature. The Fire Breath and also the Overdrive are exceptions from this rule.
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CJames
182 posts
Feb 22, 2010
11:48 PM
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Though the short reeds might be the problem
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phogi
275 posts
Feb 23, 2010
3:42 AM
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I have a manji in d, it does not squeal. My Marine band in D required beeswax so that it would not squeal, and honestly it squealed on the 2 draw bent a whole step.
I'm not sure, but I know that none of my harps squeal if I touch the opposite reed, the squealing stops. So, this is obviously where the squeal is coming from.
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barbequebob
528 posts
Feb 23, 2010
9:05 AM
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The only Asian made harps using long slot reeds are te Manji and the Fabulous, both made by Suzuki. Even those two do squeal, but it takes more work to get that to happen, and all other Asian made harps use short slot reeds and they're prone to squealing because of torsional problems inherint in their design.
As far as harps made out of the factory not to overblow, to take it a step further, diatonic harps first of all, were never originally designed to play anything past 1st position, and just as they were never designed to play overblows, they also weren't designed to do note bending either for that matter, and that is the truth.
Phogi, if that MB is squealing, there are three possibilities happening:
a). the two reeds in the hole need to be regapped as a pair;
b). there could be a burr either on the reed or on the slot, or;
c.) the reedplates need to be realigned, and tho I've seen this happen more often with Brazillian made harps, I've seen that from every harp manufacturer you can name, so you may want to play around with realigning the plates until you find the "sweet spot."
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Sincerely,
Barbeque Bob Maglinte
Boston, MA
http://www.barbequebob.com
CD available at http://www.cdbaby.com/cd/bbmaglinte
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GermanHarpist
1160 posts
Feb 23, 2010
2:02 PM
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Thanks for the answers!
BBQbob, "because of torsional problems inherint in their design"... could you be a little more specific? It would be interesting to know what exactly the design problems are.
I've helped myself with the rather crude method of putting beeswax on the rivet pads. Worked fine. However, I'd prefer actually working on the reed itself to solve the problem. Btw. I tried embossing first... did it as careful as I could, but it didn't help at all.
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germanharpist on YT. =;-) - Resonance is KEY!
Last Edited by on Feb 23, 2010 2:05 PM
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phogi
276 posts
Feb 23, 2010
2:08 PM
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BBQ, thanks! I'll try regapping.
I'm not so sure what you mean about adjusting the reedplates...do you mean that I need to make sure both reedslots are in a direct vertical line?
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Violin Cat
129 posts
Feb 23, 2010
2:14 PM
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----------Their short n' fat good OB reeds are thinner (width) and longer. The fire Breaths should be that profile now....anyone Joe Spiers Brad??
Meow Meow Meow
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nacoran
1207 posts
Feb 23, 2010
3:48 PM
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Good OB reeds are thin? Hang on, let me get my Piedmonts!!!
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congaron
560 posts
Feb 23, 2010
6:21 PM
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Mine don't, but I rarely overblow anything but 5 and 6.
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barbequebob
532 posts
Feb 24, 2010
9:53 AM
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The real description with long slot reeds are essentially longer and narrower wheras short slot reeds are shorter length wise and wider in width and there's where the torsional problems lie.
The longer reed gives off a deeper, fatter tone as well. In most Asian harps, even the rivet design can contribute to the problem as well.
Realigning the reed plates is not only direct, vertical ine, but also the slot length matches as closely as possible. This is not something that can be gauranteed to be done in about 5 minutes, so patience is necessary and with MB being nailed to the comb, you will need to remove them all to find the sweet spot. However, before you put the nails back in, get a bunch of round tipped toothpicks and stuff all the nail holes and remove the excess. Once you find the sweet spot, get a pencil that's well sharpened to place in the nail holes to mark the spot, and then one by one, place the nails back in the spot, and gently, and patiently tap the nail down with a nail set.
With harps that are screw tapped, you don't need to remove the screws completely, just play with the plate positioning until ylu find the sweet spot, and then one by one screw it back together, but make sure you recheck before tightening.
Piedmonts are Chinese made harps, and those are all short slot reeds, Nacoran, and long slot reeds are shorter in length, and wider in width, so they're not good for OB's without a boatload of work.
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Sincerely,
Barbeque Bob Maglinte
Boston, MA
http://www.barbequebob.com
CD available at http://www.cdbaby.com/cd/bbmaglinte
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MrVerylongusername
914 posts
Feb 24, 2010
10:05 AM
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@nacoran
Thin width-wise; not in profile.
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