Maciekdraheim
61 posts
Mar 04, 2010
10:46 AM
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Hi everybody! Few days ago I won a bidding on a Shure 520D microphone. When I received it today i saw the cord was shortened and an XLR plug was added (the seller didn't mention about that), but I have an XLR->Jack cord so I plugged it into my Honey Tone. Unfortunately, the mic has VERY low signal, I must cranck the small amp to maximum to hear any harp threw the mic. What may be the problem? Is it the plug or maybe, due to the elements dual-impedance nature, the element was wired for low impedance? I've opened a mic, but the gasket looked brand new and it's kind of glued to the shell, so I couldn't look on the element. I but the mic extremely cheap, because the seller knew nothing about it. Altough I'm not happy with it, because it's much, much, much weaker then my ceramic Astatic. May it be really the low-Z issue? Did those Mexican 520D were wired to low impedance in factory, because the gasket doesn't show any signs, that it was removed. Please help me, because I want to get some pleasure from my new purchase. Any help would be appreciated!
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MrVerylongusername
946 posts
Mar 04, 2010
10:50 AM
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The 520D was wired for HiZ, but came with instructions to wire it for LoZ. If nothing else has been changed it should be easy to solder on a 1/4" jack and rewire the element.
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MrVerylongusername
948 posts
Mar 04, 2010
11:00 AM
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There's another possibility - it might have been wired to use the same cable as a hohner bluesblaster, the cable you are using might not be wired correctly. It should be pin 3 with the hot signal.
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Maciekdraheim
62 posts
Mar 04, 2010
11:06 AM
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I managed to remove the gasker (the mic hasn't been opened for a long time), so when I have a chance to find a camera I'll post a pic. I also thought about the cable issue, I'll have to find a proper cable and test it with it. I don't understand from that wiring instruction, but I hope my amp-tech will. Thank you!
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Maciekdraheim
63 posts
Mar 04, 2010
1:31 PM
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Ok, I have made two pics. One is the back of the element, the second is the front. On the back I can not see any kinds of additional soldering, cutting wires etc. Here are the photos:
http://img237.imageshack.us/img237/2005/shure1.jpg
http://img638.imageshack.us/img638/4320/shure2.jpg
I'm sorry for a poor quality, but I only have a cheapo-o-matic PC camera. I hope that'll help.
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Nastyolddog
366 posts
Mar 04, 2010
2:35 PM
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Your correct there are no isues it has been wired for low-z thats all
if you can't do the job your self take it to a tech it should be a very cheap job to get fixed.
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rharley5652
91 posts
Mar 05, 2010
12:02 AM
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Mac,..heres what I see,..
You got the real deal 520D & element(99S556 / ND),.the element is a April - 1974 model from what I can see.
The problem may well be that blue wire soldered to the 3rd lug of the element,.that is the low Z side of the element,.the red & black wire's are your hi Z side,..
Looks as if someone has wire both Low Z & High Z sides of the element together!!
Clip that blue wire out ( I can't see the inside of your mic) but if it's connected to any thing inside it needs to be cut out (the blue wire that is,..it's the low Z side of the element)
Once the blue wire is cut out ,.leaving you the red & black wires connected to the element
Ya need to install a Male 1/4" jack on the end of the cord where the XLR->Jack is,..you should be good to go!
Rare to have a CM thats bad ,...looks like your wiring is the issue here,..
Check with bluetraderbob Ebay Item number: 290399619342 for the correct 1/4" male jack as he has the best prices.
Also looks as your gasket is the real deal also ,..once ya get the wiring sorted ya gonna have a nice mic ,..the meheco elements are just as good as the U.S elements,...maybe a lil' more grittier than the U.S made ones ,..
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Simply Unique Kustom Mic's By Rharley
Last Edited by on Mar 05, 2010 12:06 AM
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Oxharp
185 posts
Mar 05, 2010
2:54 AM
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Say Ron, Where do you check for the date of the newer cm elements?
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Oxharp
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Maciekdraheim
64 posts
Mar 05, 2010
3:54 AM
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Thank you very much guys! Now I have to give it to someone who can solder.
@rharley5652 - does changing the connector is so needed? I have a XLR to jack cable used with my Astatic so it would be handy for me to use it as is, maybe just rewire the plug for two-pins hot. The remaining cable is about 10 inches long, so soldering a male jack on the end wouldn't be comfortable to use.
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Maciekdraheim
65 posts
Mar 05, 2010
11:00 AM
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To be "shure", after disconnecting a blue wire wron the element (it goes under that cube-line transformer and is probably soldered to that golden disk with 3 big holes) it has to be soldered to the shell or elsewhere?
Dave from Greenbulletmics.com gave me that schematics (just download the file and open it by the web browser):
http://www.sendspace.pl/file/319aec4417d831cce7a6fbf
Thas that X on the end of a blue wire means it has to be connecet to shell? Unfortunately, I know nothing about it.
Last Edited by on Mar 05, 2010 11:35 AM
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congaron
624 posts
Mar 05, 2010
11:10 AM
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Any connector will work. Just use the two pins you need. I even use 9v battery connectors on one of my wireless rigs because it is such a firm snap connection. In that particualar case, the body pack also sends 3v to an electret headset mic if I so choose. I have my dynamic mic cable wired with a blocking capacitor to use the same body pack and connector....point being, use whatever connector you decide is for you.
Last Edited by on Mar 05, 2010 11:15 AM
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Maciekdraheim
66 posts
Mar 05, 2010
11:45 AM
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One more thing. One the rear of the shell, inside of it, where ale the wires are going to the main cable, there is a pile of glue or I don't know what. But I saw that there is a small unisolated wire sticking from it. Maybe that is the point a blue wire should be connected to?
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congaron
628 posts
Mar 05, 2010
11:47 AM
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I'll leave that one to rharley. I think he said snip the blue and that was it.
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Maciekdraheim
67 posts
Mar 05, 2010
11:58 AM
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So, this is the pic of the rear of the shell. The arrow shows where that little piece of metal is.
http://img299.imageshack.us/img299/3599/shure3.jpg
Sorry for asking so much questions but I'm a complete noob in the wiring, only the short ans simple answers (like, disconnect blue, connect it to this and this) are understandable. Unfortunately, there are no harp mic builders in Poland or atleast nearby, so before going to other techniciam I have to get as much info as possible. Thank you one more time!
Last Edited by on Mar 05, 2010 11:58 AM
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rharley5652
93 posts
Mar 06, 2010
1:27 PM
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My bad,..late night reading,..if you stay with the Red & Black wire your ohm reading will be around 1237ohms,..
going with Gregs Blue & black wiring,. your ohm reading will be around 1267,.. a 30 ohm difference ,.either way your High Z,..but I do stand corrected,..Thanks Greg,
Ok ,.just so we're on the same page :
lookin at how your resister is wired in now & hoping you've not cut any wire's??
cut the red wire out,. using the Blue & black wire for the highest Z's
using a cable about 10 inches long would be very uncomfortable to use,..
Tell ya what Mac,. for my late night reading mess up send that baby to me probono ,.ya just pay shipping to me both ways an I'll set it up with new cable & wiring ,. Message me at My link below ,..
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Simply Unique Kustom Mic's By Rharley
Last Edited by on Mar 06, 2010 1:29 PM
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rharley5652
94 posts
Mar 06, 2010
1:56 PM
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Oxharp ,..
2 digit elements started in January 1961 with the letter A ,.
Write down the alphabet A through Z,.
A=1961-Jan
B=1962-Feb
L=1972-Dec
M=1973
Z=1986
Once you hit L=1972-Dec,.. your done with the months,..
So you would read an element dated QJ
as Q=1977 J=Oct
One dated NH would read N=1974 H=Aug
Shure seemed to use the months A-L only
When you get to Z in the alphabet Z=1986
Ya start the alphabet over with A=1987
So if your reading an element EA ,.E=1991 A=Jan
You'll know it's a 1991/Jan element
an not a 1965/Jan element becuz the label will be made outta plastic type tape an not the cloth tape of the 60's.
Hope this helps,..
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Simply Unique Kustom Mic's By Rharley
Last Edited by on Mar 06, 2010 2:11 PM
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Maciekdraheim
68 posts
Mar 06, 2010
2:01 PM
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Thanks guys! It's very nice that you would like to fix the mic but I think it won't be necessary. Today I took the mic to a tech. Maybe not the strict-mic one, but we compared the element with the schematics and it's wired as shipped, both on Hi and Lo - Z at the same time :). The problem is with the connecor. The cord isolation is broken under that spring just under the mic and the plug itself is wired kinda weird. But if that guy won't help I think I send it to you. Thanks a lot! :)
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rharley5652
95 posts
Mar 06, 2010
2:16 PM
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No problem Mac ,.get with me if he falls through,. good to hear it's a good element !!
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Simply Unique Kustom Mic's By Rharley
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Maciekdraheim
70 posts
Mar 08, 2010
1:06 PM
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Finally! Today I've received a mic from a tech. He changed the cord, because the existing one was faulty in point where the cord leaves the mic, he also soldered the plug properly and removed the red wire making the mic a Hi-Impedance only. I've tried in on my modded Epi Valve Junior and it's louder than my Astatic, with more agressive tone. I like my new toy! And the best part is that I've payed for it less than 50 bucks, shipped and serviced. Thank you guys, all of you gave me a lot of really great advice! Thanks and best wishes!
Last Edited by on Mar 08, 2010 2:07 PM
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